Matera, Basilicata is like nowhere I’ve ever been. When I told my Italian friends we were visiting I got many a concerned look. Matera hasn’t had the best past or reputation, with many families as recently as the 1950s living in caves with high levels of poverty, an embarrassment to many Italians. But things have changed, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site and soon to be the European Capital of Culture in 2019, it’s certainly looking up for Matera.